Part 2 – The build
A simple fact – It’s always a good day when the big brown
truck brings you parts and you get a call from your FFL saying your transfer has shown
up.
A few details to share after doing quick inspection on the
rifle:
- The barrel is a 26” tube, great for taking advantage of a large amount of slow powder.
- I was a bit disappointed to see some grunge/funk built up around one of the optic mounting screws. It looked like corrosion, but wiped off with some CLP easily. Odd to have that in a new in box rifle.
- Per an inquiry with Remington, the twist rate is 1:9. Perfect for stabilizing the longer new Accubonds when they are available.
- The X-Mark Pro trigger was not bad at all and much better than the last one I had on a new rifle. A few passes over my trigger gauge showed it to be just a hair under four pounds and very consistent. It broke cleanly enough, that I’m going to hold off replacing it with the Timney until I get some range time. I have to wonder if it was a random anomaly or if Remington is putting more effort in, now that a fair number of factory rifles are shipping with adjustable, decent triggers.
- Typical Remington fit and finish – or about what I’d expect from the Remington assembly line.
The stock I've selected is the B&C Medalist Alaskan. The action dropped into the stock, but did have a bit of a
tight fit when putting on the bottom metal.
Good enough for a first pass at the range, maybe a bit of cleanup later on
will be in order. The action was torqued in place at 50 inch pounds.
As a side note, I’ve left the pressure pads on the end of
the stock that put a little bit of upward pressure on the barrel. I can
always remove them, but I’ve had pretty good luck with accuracy on sporter
weight barrels leaving them in.
A past project, moving a free floated laminated stock to a B&C Alaskan, actually showed better groups with the pads.. even if it did cause a 5” upward shift in the POI at 100 yards.
A past project, moving a free floated laminated stock to a B&C Alaskan, actually showed better groups with the pads.. even if it did cause a 5” upward shift in the POI at 100 yards.
Just a few notes on mounting the Trjicon aimpoint.
One of the few things I've found helpful when mounting a scope, is to do a setup run before finally torquing down the bolts. I like to just loosely assemble the scope, base and rings to the rifle, to make sure everything lines up the way I want and that the eye relief is correct. (And this is where I was glad I had a spare set of medium height rings on hand, since the low version wasn't viable.)
I used 25 in-lb for the base screws and 20 in-lb for the rings. I did not Locktite them in, as I've not found issues with quality mounts ever having an issue coming loose. I do use a set of levels to make sure that the scope is level before tightening it all down.
Here's a shot of the optics mount, showing the limited clearance of the power adjustment with the Talley medium height rings.
The completed rifle - ready for the range:
Here's a shot of the optics mount, showing the limited clearance of the power adjustment with the Talley medium height rings.
The completed rifle - ready for the range:
Very interesting pattern of the stock.
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